Mk7 GTI Intake Scoop


This page will serve as a central location for information, and links to external information, related to the air scoop for the Mk7 GTI.

Eventuri Scoop Installed
Eventuri Scoop Installed

The Scoop

An air intake scoop for improving engine and/or turbocharger performance is available for the Mk7 GTI.

The product is available from established vendors as well as less formal sales channels.

Mk7 GTI Air Intake Scoop
Mk7 GTI Air Intake Scoop

The angled part sells for between $55-$70.

Product Claims

Claims for what this part will do include:

  • Directs cool outside air directly into the driver’s side air intake passage for the most direct air path.
  • Much quicker throttle response and boost onset
  • Lower average intake air temperatures
  • Intake air temperature drops faster when the turbocharger needs air

One seller’s explanation for why it works: “Why do this? Even with an aftermarket intake , the amount of surface area between the hood and grill is ridiculously small. One wonders how any air could get in at all. This piece gives air no chance to not be shoveled straight into the cotten.

Note: Here’s an investigation into if, or by how much, the “ridiculously small” area between the hood and grill is.

Reason for Test

Determine if the air scoop performs as advertised.  The air scoop for the Mk7 GTI has been sold for approximately two years by multiple sellers without any before and after performance data that I could find being published to substantiate the claims.  The tests will evaluate how well the product meets the performance claims and if changes to the intake system performance can be detected.

Test 1

Airbox air temperature during commuting

Result: No significant change.

Test 2

Scoop Airflow Vacuum

Result: No significant change.

IC Outlet Temperature Evaluation

Result: No significant change.

Test 3

Boost Onset

Result: No significant change.

Test 4

Throttle Response

Result: No significant change.

Test 5

Ram Air Part I

Ram Air Part II

Result: Very little change.

Test 6

Temperature and Differential Pressure

Result: No significant change

Clearance analysis

Measuring the space between the hood and grill

11 thoughts on “Mk7 GTI Intake Scoop”

  1. this is interesting. so technically speaking the amount of air the turbo can suck in is the max ur engine can handle so it doesn’t matter about the amount of air you give into the intake? the one way the air is coming in is through the passenger side which is blowing right on to the manifold. seems like it barely gets any air into the intake side and the only way to get more air is to either block of the passenger side and reroute all the air over to the intake or keep both open so the engine bay can get some wind to cool down from heat soak(im guessing) and the intake can get some too. but from your research it seems as if it doesn’t make a difference? which is crazy to me because the only air it gets is through the grill right just that one little side?

    …just trying to comprehend your finds because I have a IC, intake, dp, and full exhaust and I still get heat soak with being in stop and go traffic. i feel the heat behind the headlights and on top of the hood where the turbo is(which is why i considered and turbo blanket but again it doesn’t make a significant difference) I was going to get a new intake to reroute the air and even do the inlet duct scoops too and if the heat still there was thinking an aftermarket hood with vents… any advice i would greatly appreciate it! thank you for all the research you have shared with us defiantly learning a lot!

    1. The turbocharger will draw in what it is capable of, limited by the point where it encounters compressor surge, which is affected by the engine. The intake is going to pull in air from anywhere that a difference in pressure exists, with the back of the duct open to the engine compartment it will pull warm air from the engine compartment as well as from the front. There is a good bit of open space under the hood and above the grill, enough for air to fit through. The holes in the top of the grill are just one area for air to pass through.

      Heat soak in stop and go traffic has everything to do with the intake manifold heating up and the IAT sensor inside warming as a result. The air temperature out of the IC is likely much cooler than what the IAT sensor is reporting during stop and go driving. Here’s an example.

  2. wow what a difference! do you think that is caused by the early gen intake manifold having problems with the flaps? I heard they were prone to get stuck. is it something to look into replacing or should I look into venting the engine bay more?

    1. I suspect the temperature reading from the IAT sensor is being effected by the location of the sensor inside the manifold. I don’t know if you could lower the engine compartment temperature enough to change the IAT sensor reading.

  3. whats your opinion on doing the intake runner flaps delete vs getting an aftermarket intake manifold for our 7s? obvious factor is cost. so I’m tempted to do the flap deletes first, but then thinking about it the aluminum cast ones feels as if the heat from the manifold could be controlled more than the oem plastic cast ones. Do I make a valid argument? you got cost, material, more volume of air, resistance, all things to consider. Im concerned because I might be driving across country and the heat soak is sometimes happening even at idle. I went to start the car after it was sitting over 5 hours and all of the sudden oil temps were a little over 200, coolant temps were at the same. so i got out to feel if the heat was building up and it was at the same spots.

    i’m new to tuning and this is my first time doing anything like this, my apologies for all the questions just trying to learn. I love reading your research its super informative!

    1. Thanks for the feedback, I’m glad you’re finding the site helpful.

      What’s the point of deleting the flaps from the intake manifold? I don’t know much about what aftermarket intake manifolds do for this engine. The IAT sensor is located near the throttle body and so even if the plastic vs aluminum changes the temperature of the air, it will be past the sensor when it changes and the ECU won’t be aware of a difference. I think there are better places to focus your efforts than the intake manifold.

  4. I admit I am new to the water cooled VW scene but have been around air cooled and high performance vehicles my whole life. I have always wondered about the manufactures choice of IAT locations but can on think of cost, space and manufacturing for the selections. With it being an IAT why would you locate it at or near a heat source? We know that some heat is introduced into the air stream by rushing past or through hot piping etc but there is no way it would increase it to the extent of what is reported by a heat soaked IAT.

    I used to have an 96 Z28 that would run horribly when heat soaked. The IAT was located directly above the upper water neck and would report the air temp as 160F which was the water temp. I extended the IAT cable and moved the IAT to the plastic intake pipe about 8” away so it would actually read the air temp and not the water temp. This solved the heat soak issue completely. Has anyone tried moving the IAT to a location not affected by the surroundings and only reads the actual air temp? It is really just supposed to read air temp.

    1. I have not come across a sensor relocation that puts the IAT sensor in a better location. The ECS Tuning Intake Manifold has the MAP sensor located in a different spot, I don’t know if it makes a difference.

  5. Interestingly I knew to see if this guy had tested these. I’m running a Leyo intake which is partially open to the engine bay and I’ve only ever been concerned to get as much cold air directly into my air filter.
    Mostly I find that when I am running my OBDII I see that the air intake temp is around 20-32c in atmospheric temperatures of 15-20c and then when caught in motorway stop start traffic that can be in the 40-50c range until the car is moving again when it drops quickly. Under load I’m running at 20-35c which is pretty good given the car is putting out 485bhp (Garrett GT2260s amongst a range of goodies).
    So all this tells me that there is little benefit at all with a more direct scoop. In fact I am wondering if I am better to have a fan blowing cold air in that starts or blows only when the car is in those stop start temp circumstances. Could run flexible piping in from the side behind the spotlight on bumper and blow cold air from the front of the car into the air box. Complicated …..and cramped space though.

    1. I think adding fans would be a lot of effort for little gain. Other than trying to make full power from a stop I doubt there’d be a condition where the fans show any benefit.

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